During the 22nd China Kunming International Flower Exhibition, the coffee yarn products from the Wa ethnic group in Ximeng County garnered significant attention.
On October 18, Naxiang, a resident of Group Six in Banong Village, Wengake Town, Ximeng Wa Autonomous County, completed a training session in Zuokuo Village, about 40 kilometers from her home. Over the course of six days, she taught over 40 villagers the art of Wa brocade weaving. This marked her second training session in October and the ninth this year.
What set this training apart was Naxiang’s introduction of coffee yarn into the traditional Wa weaving techniques. The participants were intrigued, and she explained, “Coffee yarn brocade is in high demand.”
This past July at the 8th China-South Asia Exposition in Kunming, Banmu Village in Mengsong Town showcased coffee yarn brocade products, which became the best-sellers in the coffee industry exhibition. On the first day of the event, numerous orders were placed for Wa brocade suits, ties, aprons, scarves, and shawls. Buyers from Beijing and Shanghai purchased half of Banmu Village’s stock of coffee-related aprons.
“We’re not worried about selling our products; instead, our concern is completing the orders successfully,” stated Chen Tao, the first secretary stationed in Banmu Village.
The introduction of coffee yarn has significantly enhanced the recognition of Wa brocade. Pu’er is one of China’s main coffee-producing regions, and the Wa weaving craft is recognized as a national-level intangible cultural heritage. Since assuming the role of first secretary in Banmu Village in 2023, Chen has sought to merge these two elements.
Upon arriving in Banmu Village, Chen was captivated by the various Wa brocade clothing, bags, bedding, and blankets crafted by local women. The tradition of Wa brocade weaving, one of China’s esteemed ethnic textile arts, is learned by Wa women from a young age, starting around thirteen or fourteen.
The primary materials used in Wa brocade are cotton and hemp. The cotton weaving process is extensive, involving stages from planting to spinning and crafting into final products. The dyes are sourced from local flora and fauna, as well as minerals, including materials like purple ashtree insects, indigo plants, and tea leaves.
The weaving technique employs a backstrap loom, where artisans sit on the ground, using their bodies to tension the warp threads. The intricate designs symbolize the Wa people’s reverence for nature and love for life; motifs like the cow head represent admiration for cattle, while wavy lines denote respect for fire.
Chen understands that despite the richness of this tradition, a gap exists between cultural heritage and market demand. To engage younger generations, a bridge is needed.
Nowadays, Wa women purchase yarn from local shops instead of spinning it themselves. However, they only have access to a limited variety of yarns. Much like many young people, Chen is a coffee enthusiast. A chance encounter with coffee yarn at the China International Textile Yarn Exhibition in Shanghai earlier this year sparked her imagination.
As the coffee market in China continues to expand, the recycling of coffee grounds has gained traction. The sustainable textile industry has started using coffee grounds to create various products, utilizing their antibacterial and odor-controlling properties.
With the collaboration of designers, manufacturers, villagers, and relevant departments, Chen’s vision to “wear coffee and intangible heritage” came to fruition. When yarn made from Yunnan coffee grounds arrived in Banmu Village, the local Wa brocade cooperative began creating a range of products, including clothing, bedding, curtains, and decorative items. Coffee chain stores started customizing Wa brocade ornaments and tea sets, merging ancient craftsmanship with contemporary culture.
“Using coffee yarn as a bridge, coffee enthusiasts will discover Wa brocade,” Chen noted. “The fusion of modern and traditional meets the youth’s quest for sustainability and style.”
Turning “Old Crafts” into “New Industries”
At 39, Naxiang stands as a key heritage representative for the Wa brocade technique in Ximeng County. After finishing middle school, she trained under her mother, learning the full weaving process by the age of eighteen. Naxiang specializes in creating various items, earning around 30,000 yuan annually through this craft.
“The government’s support for us has grown tremendously in recent years,” she shared. Since 2014, she has been engaged as a practical instructor in numerous Wa brocade training classes, witnessing an increase in participation, with one class having 100 attendees.
A significant component of the “Three-Year Action Plan for Developing the ‘Beautiful Ximeng’ Wa Brocade Industry (2023-2025)” focuses on intensifying training efforts. The plan aims to develop 4,000 weaving practitioners by 2024, providing a platform for artisans like Naxiang to shine while elevating the craftsmanship of rural artisans.
While the tradition of Wa brocade is rich, it is largely passed down through oral history, with little documentation. The late development of the weaving industry means there are many small, weak local workshops, resulting in limited innovation and market visibility.
To address this, relevant departments in Ximeng County have established a database of intangible cultural heritage, documenting skills, color combinations, patterns, and characteristics to preserve this art form. Key works, such as shawls and clothing, have been included in China’s textile museums for protection and display.
In December 2023, a dedicated team was formed in Ximeng to promote Wa brocade, outlining ten objectives: establishing a workshop system, creating a training base, refurbishing an experience center, developing an industrial village for weaving, providing skill training, cultivating a cultural brand, and more.
This team is also drafting plans to create a sustainable economic model linking farmers with the Wa brocade industry and has begun developing over 20 new creative products, including bags and home décor.
By participating in large events in cities like Shanghai and Kunming and engaging with international markets, artisans are enhancing their visibility.
Through initiatives merging brocade with cultural products, art, tourism, and labor, the demand for Wa brocade is on the rise, transitioning it from an “old craft” to a “new industry.”
During this year’s training, Naxiang noticed not only an increase in young participants but also a rising number of young men getting involved.
“The transmission and development of intangible heritage require not just skills but also the support of wisdom,” stated a responsible official in the Wa brocade team. The training program aims to open heritage preservation to society, broaden the pool of heritage practitioners, and increasingly emphasizes “cultural innovation” alongside traditional skills as a key qualification for recognition as a practitioner.
“Standing on tradition while embracing innovation is critical in the inheritance and development of intangible heritage,” the official concluded.