All aboard the sparkling railway breaking new ground for East Africa

Shaped like the rare tanzanite gemstone, Dar es Salaam’s new railway terminal stands as a beacon of Tanzania’s ambitious transport goals. The terminal features gleaming glass panels that shimmer in the sunlight, reminiscent of the stunning bluish-purple gem.

The newly introduced electric trains, the first of their kind in the region, offer a swift connection between Tanzania’s commercial hub and its capital city, Dodoma, cutting travel time to under four hours—half that of a road journey. This development marks the beginning of a key national initiative: the construction of a 2,560km Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) designed to connect major cities and neighboring countries such as Burundi, Rwanda, and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Having opened in August, this 460km segment from Dar es Salaam to Dodoma has already started to make an impact, with President Samia Suluhu dubbing the railway a “pathway to our future,” one that aims to elevate Tanzania’s regional status.

In Dodoma, the train station’s design mimics the rocky hills surrounding the city, merging the nation’s natural attributes with modern architecture. Though Dodoma was designated as the capital 50 years ago, it took the strong leadership of the late President John Magufuli to ensure that government bodies would actually relocate there. Meanwhile, much of the commercial activity remains in Dar es Salaam, making an efficient transport link between the two cities crucial.

The electric train provides residents with a smooth and convenient travel option, vastly improving upon the older, slower trains. Inside, the carriages are designed for comfort, featuring clean, reclining seats equipped with foldable tray tables, and a crew member on board to offer a selection of snacks and beverages.

Traveling in economy class, passengers find five seats in each row, while business and luxury classes offer a more spacious two-seat arrangement on either side of the aisle. Gloria Sebastian, a Dar es Salaam resident visiting family in Dodoma, expressed her satisfaction with the service, stating, “We are grateful; we are not tired.”

Machibya Masanja, overseer of the SGR service’s development and operations, noted a significant demand, with at least 7,000 passengers utilizing the eight daily trips, approaching full capacity. “We cannot meet the demand with our current trips,” Masanja said, pointing to plans for increasing the number of journeys as necessary.

Advance booking is crucial, as tickets can sell out days in advance. Economy travel between Dar es Salaam and Dodoma costs around 40,000 Tanzanian shillings ($15), while business class rides are priced at 70,000 shillings ($26). The first train departs at 6 AM, requiring passengers to arrive two hours early for security checks.

Inside the terminal, passengers navigate through security similar to an airport setting, which some found excessive, given there hadn’t been any recent threats. However, the atmosphere remained positive despite heightened precautions, including inquiries from police about photography at the terminal.

As the train departs, it reaches speeds of up to 120 km/h (75 mph) while offering stunning views of the Tanzanian landscape, crossing expansive fields, rivers, and hills, creating a picturesque ride for every traveler. Passengers, particularly first-timers, expressed excitement at the experience. Bernice Augustine shared her delight, stating, “It is awesome. You cannot compare it with the old train: it’s convenient, it’s clean, it’s easy.”

Hilaly Mussa Maginga, recalling unpleasant experiences on the old line, noted the advantages of the new SGR service: “When you travel long distances, you sit until it hurts, so having this option for a shorter journey is fantastic. We’ve come from far; thank God.”

The journey to establish the SGR has not been without obstacles, with construction starting in 2017 and initial completion dates missed due to various delays, including impacts from COVID-19. The total project cost is projected to reach $10 billion, with significant funding coming from the Tanzanian government and international partners including Denmark, Sweden, and the African Development Bank.

Masanja highlighted the social benefits of the service, emphasizing that while immediate profitability may not be evident, passenger income covers operational costs. Plans for freight trains are also on the horizon.

However, not everyone is pleased with the outcome of the rail project. Adam Ally Mwanshinga, representing the Dodoma Bus Terminal Agents’ Union, noted a considerable decline in business, with daily passenger numbers dropping by 400-500 as people increasingly opt for the convenience of the train. “Business is down, and life is difficult,” he lamented, although he recognized, “The SGR development has done well for the majority of the people.”

As Tanzania continues its journey towards modernization, the new railway service stands as a testament to progress, reshaping the transportation landscape while highlighting the complexities inherent in development.