At 18, the upscale restaurant perched atop the Rusacks hotel in St Andrews caters to golf enthusiasts with its massive steaks, yet there are inventive dishes that may leave diners feeling unsatisfied. On a bustling weeknight, the atmosphere buzzes with middle-aged men—many hailing from the U.S.—exchanging stories and laughter while enjoying views of the legendary 18th hole of the Old Course, the oldest golf course in the world.

However, the dining experience feels more like crowd control than genuine hospitality. Upon our late arrival, we’re greeted with the indifference typical of someone at the end of a long shift. Despite the charming decor of wood paneling and green leather booths, the chaos behind the open kitchen is palpable, where cooks tirelessly grill giant tomahawk steaks that could rival the size of small countries.

The menu prominently showcases a variety of Aberdeen Angus steaks, some displayed in a backlit aging cabinet with price tags to match. While the restaurant touts culinary aspirations under the guidance of new executive chef Billy Boyter, known for his Michelin-starred experience at the Cellar in Anstruther, the core clientele seems primarily focused on one thing: a hefty serving of beef.

We decide to explore some non-steak options that hint at Boyter’s potential. The £13 starter of pig’s head on toast sounds intriguing but ultimately disappoints. The toast is a dry, unappetizing slab of pumpernickel, accompanied by a lukewarm lump of pork, and the promised piccalilli appears to have vanished, leaving just a smear on the plate. The £18 scallops are also overcooked, devoid of the smokiness promised in the sauce, instead presenting an overly acidic flavor that suggests a preparation error.

As we progress to the main courses, things don’t get any better. My £40 grilled lemon sole is well-prepared, but unfortunately overcooked and oversalted. The accompanying lemon butter resembles more of a grease puddle than a sauce. While the duck breast boasts a crispy exterior, it’s disappointingly pink within, raising concerns about the sous-vide cooking method. The vegetable sides, including cabbage paired with what tastes like store-bought chili ketchup, do little to enhance the meal.

On a positive note, the rock oysters stand out—plump and fresh, although the dressing doesn’t quite hit the mark. A sticky toffee pudding and a well-executed baked Alaska provide small highlights, but by the end of the meal, these feel more like afterthoughts than the stars of the dining experience.

As we wrap up, we find ourselves surrounded by a lively table of golfers who treat the dining area like a casual social gathering. While the attentive young staff manage the chaos commendably, the noise level makes me long for a quieter environment as I eagerly call for the elevator.

In the grand scheme, the restaurant seems to cater primarily to the influx of American golfing tourists, and while they might revel in the lively atmosphere, it often overshadows any culinary excellence the kitchen strives to deliver.

In other restaurant news, the UK branch of Karen’s Diner has recently closed, resulting in job losses and leaving ticket holders in a difficult position. Meanwhile, acclaimed Italian chef Carlo Cracco is set to launch his first UK restaurant at Eataly in London next month. Additionally, on the Cornish horizon, chef Chris Eden, formerly of Gidleigh Park, is preparing to unveil a new autumn menu at the Watergate Bay hotel.

For more insights and updates, feel free to reach out to Jay Rayner at [email protected] or connect with him on social media @jayrayner1.