Carlos, a rider from the Sanubari stables, takes his half Sumba, half Arab racing horse named Calypso for a ride along the stunning beaches of Sumba, Indonesia. The resilient sandalwood ponies are not just working animals; they are deeply embedded cultural symbols within the local community.

In an interview, Gerson, a caretaker at a luxury hotel in Sumba, explained, “Horses are a crucial part of our lifestyle here. They serve many purposes—from transportation and carrying crops to playing significant roles in our ceremonies and traditions.”

Historically, Sumba, known for its ancient megalithic tombs and elaborate ikat textiles, has flown under the tourist radar. However, an adventurous new crop of travelers is uncovering the island’s raw beauty and rich cultural fabric.

One of the unique experiences for visitors is the opportunity to ride the island’s distinctive sandalwood ponies through its rolling hills and secluded beaches. Smaller but sturdier than mainland breeds, these ponies are thought to be descendants of Mongolian horses that were introduced centuries ago.

These ponies take their name from the island’s previously abundant sandalwood trees, a once highly valued resource traded throughout Southeast Asia. Known for their endurance, they have adapted well to Sumba’s tough terrain and are considered extremely valuable to the local community.

Gerson highlighted their cultural significance, especially during traditional ceremonies like weddings and funerals. A particularly noteworthy event is the pasola, held annually in February and March. It’s not just a competition; it’s a spiritual ritual deeply rooted in the Marapu religion. During this event, two teams of horsemen engage in mock battles, throwing spears at one another, which attracts large crowds and is believed to ensure a bountiful harvest.

“The spilling of blood during pasola, whether it’s human or horse, is seen as a good omen for the agricultural season ahead,” Gerson shared.

Despite their importance, sandalwood ponies are facing tough challenges as their numbers have dwindled in recent years. Economic pressures and the encroachment of modern life make it harder for local families to maintain these traditional herds. Additionally, crossbreeding with imported racing horses threatens the genetic integrity of the breed.

“It’s becoming tougher for families to afford them,” Gerson noted. “Fewer young people are learning how to care for the horses, and the demand for faster racing horses has an impact on our local breeds.”

Robertus Fahik, a writer and Sumba expert, points out that these horses hold crucial roles in customary marriage practices, particularly in the tradition of Belis, which involves a ceremonial bride price. “In Belis, families must provide livestock, including horses, as part of the dowry. Every horse in Sumba is meticulously documented, almost like having an identity card.”

Horses also play a significant symbolic role in funerary practices. Fahik explained, “When someone passes, there’s a tradition called padang, where a horse or another animal is sacrificed to accompany the spirit of the deceased.”

He adds that within Sumbanese culture, a galloping stallion symbolizes leadership and authority, while a crowing rooster represents respect and guidance.

But tourism might provide a lifeline for preserving both the island’s traditions and its cherished ponies, as horseback tours are becoming increasingly popular among visitors.

“Tourism can help preserve our heritage,” Gerson asserted. “The more people learn about our traditions, the more they’ll support our efforts to keep them alive.”